Aileron Construction :: Ail_EndCap_1
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AileronRigging 4 Counterweight Casting - 1 Note: The procedure recommended by the Lancair manuals to attach the weights furnished in the kit to the aileron was far less than easy or satisfactory. We decided to work a better solution by casting weights into a mold that fits the profile of the aileron and wing better. This picture shows the profile of the weight. We made a mold out of bondo using this plug. Two full-size weights were cast and a smaller, third one was cast using the remainder of the lead that we calculated would slightly over balance the aileron. The weights are attached, starting at the inboard end of the leading edge flange with a hysol/flox mix and clamped until cured. Three bolts were then installed through each weight and flange. The nuts are low profile lock nuts and were countersunk in the lead. Counterweight Casting - 2 Endcap Fabrication - 1 Endcap Fabrication - 2 Heat Oven - 1 Note: In a lapse of sanity, we decided to close out the right alieron on the bench!! When it was cured, there was great consternation and weeping in the shop when we found that the TE was about 5/16" higher at the tip than at the inboard end. We had taken out the washout of the aileron!! Mark Mahnke at Lancair suggested building an "oven" and heating the aileron - attached to the wing and clamped to the TE support. The TE support was adjusted to a lower height equal to the distance of the warp in the aileron at the wingtip. We cranked up the propane-fired heater and let the temp in the interior of the aileron get to 160 degrees for 15 minutes. It was measured on a quick acting thermometer inserted in the end of the vent hole in the outboard aileron. The temp in the "oven" was held to 180 degrees for the whole process. After letting it cool gradually, the warp was gone and the aileron was lying perfectly flat on the steel TE support. It was flatter than the left aileron - the first one we did. Trim Servo - 1
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AileronRigging 4 Counterweight Casting - 1 Note: The procedure recommended by the Lancair manuals to attach the weights furnished in the kit to the aileron was far less than easy or satisfactory. We decided to work a better solution by casting weights into a mold that fits the profile of the aileron and wing better. This picture shows the profile of the weight. We made a mold out of bondo using this plug. Two full-size weights were cast and a smaller, third one was cast using the remainder of the lead that we calculated would slightly over balance the aileron. The weights are attached, starting at the inboard end of the leading edge flange with a hysol/flox mix and clamped until cured. Three bolts were then installed through each weight and flange. The nuts are low profile lock nuts and were countersunk in the lead. Counterweight Casting - 2 Endcap Fabrication - 1 Endcap Fabrication - 2 Heat Oven - 1 Note: In a lapse of sanity, we decided to close out the right alieron on the bench!! When it was cured, there was great consternation and weeping in the shop when we found that the TE was about 5/16" higher at the tip than at the inboard end. We had taken out the washout of the aileron!! Mark Mahnke at Lancair suggested building an "oven" and heating the aileron - attached to the wing and clamped to the TE support. The TE support was adjusted to a lower height equal to the distance of the warp in the aileron at the wingtip. We cranked up the propane-fired heater and let the temp in the interior of the aileron get to 160 degrees for 15 minutes. It was measured on a quick acting thermometer inserted in the end of the vent hole in the outboard aileron. The temp in the "oven" was held to 180 degrees for the whole process. After letting it cool gradually, the warp was gone and the aileron was lying perfectly flat on the steel TE support. It was flatter than the left aileron - the first one we did. Trim Servo - 1
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